Food customs arelicetpression of the identity and traditions and gove stronger in and hybridizatres over time. Never for comparison and hybridization with other culture and they so commercial exchange and temporary or permanent migrate Food well as the practices and rituals involved) is in all reperation procenter for this reason it can become a "fashion' that fixes and orients compton Myles, creating behaviours that decree a gap between upper and lower classes The market for these goods could be called a 'market of distinction, saturated witis moderm

products, or 'status goods'. During the centuries, a double process has occurred: first, the coding and preservation of products we define as "typical", meaning closely linked to their territory (terroir) of origin; and second, the constant hybridization of products and tastes on the wave of ever stronger globalization.

In the last two decades, globalization has deepened, and large countries such as India and China are entering the international markets of consumption and tourism. All this has given the food market a sudden acceleration. Certainly, this evolution is not unheard of. Analogous processes have been seen the past, characterized by constant innovation in and hybridization of tastes and food practices. However, none of these processes matches the scale and speed of the changes that have occurred in the last 20 years.

Thus, in both developed and emerging countries we have witnessed growth in the desire to consume foods and drinks associated with the food and wine culture and identity of certain countries that trendsetters (and the upper classes they inspire) consider particularly 'elegant'. The phenomenon is a very strong 'desire of Europe', particularly focused on the food and wine traditions of two countries: France and Italy.